As always, you must forgive the small vacation I took from blogging. I can assure you all that I did not take a vacation from life in the meanwhile. A variety of different experiences have happened in the past 6 weeks, some of them interesting, some depressing, some frightening, some profoundly philosophical, some purely enjoyable, some life-changing. I don't lead your average monotonous existence of steady work, the bar/club scene, and sampling of "fine" restaurants. In fact, I would consider that lifestyle, if I were to lead it, and everything associated with it, as a grave personal failure. Instead, I serve in the IDF (that's Israel Defense Forces for you space cadets), in a position that requires me to combine focus and total awareness with belief and insanity. I dwell in a modest apartment in a nice Jerusalem neighborhood, and I eat a steady diet of hummus, various salads, bread and chocolate milk. My social life consists of attending communal prayers, Shabbat dinners, Shabbat lunches and Seudat Shlishit (Saturday night meal). But the majority of the time, my social life consists of sleeping in a dirty, nasty bunk bed in sketchy old barracks, wearing the same uniform that I sweated in for several days running, and simply trying to catch up on sleep. If I am lucky, I will be allowed to take my boots off and air out my feet. If I am on the "alert ready team", which I am a lot of the time, then I could keep my boots on for three, four days straight. In the army my body, if sent to sleep, will wake up fully refreshed after just 4 hours. A shower is a preciously rare treat, as are decent bathroom facilities.
After we finished our final bouts of training in late June, my company carried out a 50 kilometer masa (march) on the night of June 27th. It began at 7pm and ended at 7:30 am the following morning - 35 km of walking and 15 km of carrying stretchers. The terrain was Southern Judea, which is dry, rocky and very hilly. I was carrying about 35 lbs worth of personal gear, and, on an on and off basis, an extra backpack with water bottles, whose weight I'd rather forget. The uphill parts were the most difficult fitness-wise, and many people wouldn't have made it up without the help of others. There was a nasty hill somewhere around kilometer 26, where the water-pack was weighing me down and the steepness of the ascent challenged my already destroyed quadriceps and back. I have to thank one particular young man, a chef from North Carolina, who literally dragged me up to the top. I would have surely collapsed otherwise. Towards kilometer 30, a new kind of pain kicked in, one that goes beyond the burn and the constant back pain that we're all pretty much used to. It was the pain in the muscles of the feet, worn down by supporting weight and being slammed against rocks and uneven terrain. The foot pain was universal, no one was immune, and it became the first bane of our existence during the march. The second bane was the now all too familiar stabbing pain felt in the shoulder and upper back while one is uncomfortably positioned under the stretcher. At kilometer 35, after a short break, we hoisted the stretchers onto our already weary bodies. Each stretcher was loaded with 200 kilograms of sandbags. So, in addition to all the downward pressure we felt from our regular loads, we now each had 50 kg nestled between the shoulder and the neck.
The last 15 km could only be described as a never-ending nightmare. The ascents and descents were no easier that in the earlier parts of the masa, and the sun started rising, adding heat to the already absurdly painful equation. We climbed the last several hours worth of hills with our legs and backs in a state of total numbness. The pain, by kilometer 45, had transformed in a general state of deep fatigue. We had all hit the proverbial wall, physically, and were kept going by the prospect of being done. Something quite simple - to be done with training and to move out of the training base and all the negative memories and experiences associated with it. The final climb, which we started around 7am, was up the "snake path" of Masada. This is an ancient fortress near the Dead Sea where Jews made a last stand against the gloried 10th Roman Legion, the last chapter in a rebellion that was to lead to our exile from the Land of Israel in 71 AD. Masada clearly carries a lot of meaning to the Jews and to the Jewish army in particular, and to be able to finish our final march on top of it was an honor indeed.
Counterintuitive as it may be, this last ascent was actually not that hard. My legs and feet had been rendered numb for hours, my back was forgetting to send the pain signals to my brain. The final climb was more emotional than anything else. Physically this was impossible, but my entire company, after 12 hours of hard, fast mountain hiking, every foursome carrying its cursed stretcher, literally sprinted up Masada. We passed tourists on the way up. The Israelis were clapping and shouting their support, the Americans were just staring in shock. They didn't expect to have their insular, organized tour to a "site of historical interest" be interrupted by 75 dirty, sweaty young men, wild-eyed, carrying loads of military gear and stretchers, assault rifles hanging off their necks, sprinting with inhuman energy up the mountain. I was so overcome with emotion that I actually, in between panting, managed to let a few lonely tears roll down my cheeks. We are living proof that Masada and other ancient history in Israel is not just for the books and the tourists. Jewish fighters are here today, in the present, and we walk and run over the very land that our ancestors did, fighting for our right to be here. Once we reached the top of Masada, we began singing, dancing and taking pictures. The end of the masa and that hour that we were just soaking it in at the top of Masada, made the 8 months of pain absolutely worth it.
Since the masa, and the beret ceremony that followed, my unit was sent to Hevron for a week, and then to Shchem (that's Nablus for the uninitiated), where we have been ever since. Hevron is an exceptionally important city in Judaism, second in significance to Jerusalem and is located in the dead center of Judea. Our patriarchs, and most of their wives are buried there. There's a town called Kiryat Arba, which has about 9,000 Jews and abuts downtown Hevron. From there it's a 10 minute walk to the Tomb of the Patriarchs, and from the Tomb westward you can visit a series of Jewish neighborhoods, that contain about 1,000 Jews in total. This same downtown area is more or less abandoned, with maybe 10 or so Arab families living in buildings here and there. The area is cordoned off by the IDF and the Border Guard from the rest of the Hevron, which is a sprawling, crowded mess filled with about 200,000 Arabs. Serving in Hevron was relatively boring, but it did afford me and the other observant guys in my unit the opportunity to pray at one of our holiest sites.
Next, as I mentioned above, we were deployed to Shchem, located centrally in Samaria and populated by 400,000 Arabs. It is also a holy city for the Jews and contains Joseph's Tomb, among other sites. All around Shchem are Arab villages and Jewish towns, scattered among the various hilltops and valleys. On some of these hills there are tombs of Eliezer and Itamar, the sons of Aaron the original Cohen, amongst others. Mount Girizim, where the Jews build the first makeshift, semi-permanent temple shortly after entering the Land of Israel, is one of the dominant hills. The hills are exceptionally steep, the terrain is very difficult and rocky, and the low areas are surprisingly flat and suited to agriculture and cattle grazing. Shchem itself is kind of like an Arab village grown too big, with little planning for roads, sewers, streetlights, and a total absence of green spaces. Everything is stone structures, piles of trash and terrible city planning. No Israeli can go into Shchem in the middle of the day, as he will most definitely be killed, or, at best, kidnapped and held for ransom. The city is closed and only Arabs with identity cards issued by the PA can go there. The exceptions are international organizations, like CARE, the UN or the EU, and foreign tourists who are not recognizably Jewish, and who come in groups that are in contact and cooperation with Fatah. I despise the various Europeans and Americans who come with these organizations or groups. They have no idea what is going on, they don't understand what the the army is doing there, and they are completely wrapped around the proverbial fingers of their Arab handlers. The Arabs themselves, I don't particularly mind. They are an enemy nation, but the dispute is between our two peoples, and each side can and should make their claims and try to achieve them. It's the interference from the international community that ruins any chances of the nature of the conflict being changed and any finality being reached. I know my readers are itching for the details of what I do in Shchem and how I do it, but it's mostly classified. You'd have to be a close friend of Felix to get that type of information.
To go back to something I mentioned in my last post, the ultimate arbiter of what is morally right and what is morally wrong is the word of G-d, as expressed in the Torah and as interpreted by the thousands of years worth of texts and scholarship since the giving of the Torah in about 1300 B.C. This is a basic, fundamental concept in Judaism. Anyone who wants to be a real Jew and wants to lead a real, Jewish way of life has to accept this reality. Once you accept it, the intellectual depth and breadth of Jewish learning will open up to you full understanding of both Jewishness and the world as a whole. If you do not accept it, you will be drifting along, and eventually away, from the true core of the Jewish people. Reform, Conservative, Reconstructionist, Progressive and whatever other streams of Judaism have been created, they are watered down, weak and have no ability to transfer true Jewish identity and real Jewish knowledge down the generations and for eternity. These streams are incomplete, they are compromised and they are causing the assimilation of millions. The goal of any nation, I believe, is not to assimilate into American/global/consumerist mass culture, but to maintain its own unique identity, develop scientifically and economically, and enhance the power of its own identity (linguistically, historically, culturally, religiously) using the advances that humanity is making. It's not as easy as just accepting Holywood's and MTV's version of life. But depth of identity gives strength, happiness and empowerment beyond anything that the latest consumerist and hedonistic trends can offer.
Sincerely,
Felix
